Radial bearings have a small amount of play due to the way the races and balls fit together. Although this condition is highly undesirable in any hub with angular contact, or cup-and-cone bearings, this is intentionally designed into our cartridge bearings.
This eliminates any side-loading of the bearings, reducing both friction and rolling resistance. In addition, tightening the quick release on our hubs does NOT add any additional friction to the system—the same cannot be said for cup-and-cone setups.
Although the play can feel disconcerting while tuning up your bike in the repair stand, rest assured that this play is eliminated as soon as you climb aboard your bike. Race and Ball Curvature Differential between race curvature and ball curvature This differential in shape allows the balls to touch the race at only one point of contact, reducing friction while allowing the bearings to handle side loads by achieving a slight angular contact.
If you purchased clincher s you can avoid using the valve extension by purchasing tubes with 60mm valve stems vs. If you have s you should use standard tubes or tubulars with the included valve extenders for optimum performance. We also recommend pre-installing an extension onto your spare and inflating it to ensure proper fit. This will save time and headaches out on the road.
Make sure that the tape does not stretch over the air opening at the end of the valve. This provides an air seal between the valve and extension.
If thinner tape is used, more than one layer might be needed to seal properly. Tape should be replaced each time the extension is removed. Check for leaks. Always check valve, pump, and inflator compatibility before riding. All standard Zipp wheel spokes are straight pull or oval stainless steel. CSC, Clydesdale, and cyclocross wheels use j-bend stainless steel spokes. CSC and cyclocross are 2x all around. We have found higher spoke tensions seriously reduce ride quality and provide no improvement in lateral stiffness.
Before truing or adjusting spoke tension, apply a drop of lube such as Triflow between the nipple and rim. This will reduce friction between the two surfaces and lessen the chances of rounding off a nipple. Your tires might be more difficult to install on our rims than on some rims. However, we feel that any tightness at installation is more than made up for by the improved high speed and high-pressure safety performance of the rims.
Do not use Velox or a similarly thick cloth rim strip. We have used these for years, and appreciate their solid performance, but the strip is too thick and too wide for our rim, making tire installation and proper seating of the tire bead extremely difficult.
You will have a much easier time installing and removing tires if you use a thin rim strip. We recommend using our own Zipp rim tape, which is a durable, yet thin, woven tape.
It has been designed specifically to work best with our clincher rims. It is also a good idea to clean the inner rim surfaces with rubbing alcohol or acetone to ensure sufficient adhesion of the rim tape to the rim.
We recommend — psi for all nylon-cased tires such as Michelin, Continental, and Vittoria Ultra Speed , and — psi for cotton and softer material-cased tires such as Vittoria CX, Vredestein, and Veloflex.
Pressures above these will decrease tire grip and actually increase rolling resistance on most road surfaces, as the tire generates more heat conforming to the uneven road surface. Remember, increased tire pressure will cause the rider to experience more high- frequency road vibration, possibly giving the feeling of going faster, but actually sapping energy as the tire bounces over road imperfections instead of absorbing them.
Higher tire pressure significantly reduces grip and increases tire wear as well, so if you are wearing through tires quickly or feeling skittish on less than perfect roads, you might be running too much tire pressure. Therefore we rate our clincher rims at psi MAX. Despite what you might have heard, gluing a tubular or sew-up tire onto a rim is not difficult.
With practice, changing a flat with a tubular is also fast and easy. Like learning to tie your shoe, it might seem mysterious at first, but the process can be reduced to following a few simple procedures in a particular order. Gluing a tubular is a task best learned by watching an experienced person. If you have a friend or local bike shop repair person who is an old pro at this task, ask to watch him.
For best results read the instructions fully, then plan your moves through each step, and lay out all of your gluing supplies in advance. You will be able to install a new tubular in under 20 minutes on a new rim, and even more quickly on a previously used rim not including drying time of the glue. In a race situation, you should be able to change a stretched and pre-glued tubular in less than two minutes.
Practice is the key to an efficient tire change. It will take longer to read these instructions than to actually install the tire! Your tire or glue might also come with instructions that modify the basic procedure outlined here. Many tire manufacturers have posted instructions for mounting tires on their websites.
These are also good resources. Do not use 3M Fast Tack. The aggressive tack is prone to damage tires on removal. Goof Off is a latex paint remover available in hardware or paint stores. It works very well for removing most glue. Check to see if your tire has a layer of rubber over the base tape. If it appears to be raw, un-coated cotton, you will not need the scraping tools. You will NOT need glue for this step. Use the proper way when you want the job done right and have the time.
The down and dirty way works too, but save it for an emergency when the tire must be ridden in a short period of time. See notes about how to do this if you have any questions.
Your feet should be about shoulder width apart. The valve hole of the rim should be at the top of the wheel near your waist. Maintain a very firm even pressure as you work your way down from the top of the wheel. Even pressure will ensure the valve does not twist in the rim. Try to keep the tire centered on the rim. The farther you stretch the tire at this point, the easier it will be to roll the last bit over onto the rim. As you reach the last few inches, lift the rim up until it is horizontal.
Rest the edge of the rim against your stomach or upper thigh. The area of the valve hole will now be against your stomach or thigh with the as-yet un-mounted portion of tire farthest away from you.
Maintaining the pressure, roll the last bit of tire onto the rim using your thumbs. Do not use a tool to pry the last portion over the edge of the rim. After installation, blow up the tire to — psi, and leave it unglued on the rim for a few hours, or overnight. Step on the tire with one foot or hook the tire over your bent knee and pull upward with a steadily increasing firm pressure. The driver continued on. I want to hope he never saw me, had no idea he hit me, and did not flee intentionally.
I was a little shaken, obviously angry, but I was uninjured. The worst part about the whole situation was the damage to my front wheel, but it could have been much worse overall. I filed a police report, but without tags or a good look at the driver, there was little chance he could be located. Riding a bit of rockier trail, I tried my best to knock these wheels out of true, with no luck.
The overall durability and build quality is excellent, and the wheels have a max rider weight limit of pounds. The inclusion of DT Swiss hubs also means you will have easy access to service parts if the need does arise. Roval even includes a few spare replacement spokes in the box, just in case. Overall, the Terra CLs are a lot of wheelset for the money. So much so that I would have a tough time recommending the pricier CLX version to most people.
With the gram weight difference being entirely in the hubs and spokes, the ride improvement would be minimal. Bikes and Gear.
United States. Type keyword s to search. Today's Top Stories. What Is the Mind-Muscle Connection? How to Address Winter Skin Conditions. Reynolds Strike vs. Forum rules. Post by kroemerk on Thu Jan 15, am I am thinking about buying a better wheelset and have been looking at the Zipp and the new Reynolds Strike.
The replacement warranty for Zipp seems to be that you bring it to a dealer, they send it back to Zipp and you get a discount on the repairs. I just wonder if the slightly deeper rim on the Strike and the lower spoke count from the Zipp would counter-balance the minimal weight advantage of the Zipp. Also not sure if all that "dimple" technology on the Zipp would make any real difference.
Lastly, don't know if the difference in breaking technology i. Post by Waldo on Thu Jan 15, am kroemerk wrote: I am thinking about buying a better wheelset and have been looking at the Zipp and the new Reynolds Strike. Post by yourdaguy on Thu Jan 15, am I am a fan of low spoke count. There are 2 kinds of drag on a wheel. Processional drag that is the drag of the wheel flowing through the air and rotational drag, that is the drag of the wheel spinning. Most aero wheel makers are bragging about their processional drag I don't have a wind tunnel, but I do extensive roll down testing that is about as real world as you can get and my low spoke count wheels are faster than my my pre dimple Zipp 's and about equal to my also pre dimple 's and that is even with the supposedly better bearings in the Zipps.
I have tested this repeatedly and using the same tires and tubes and all other factors the same. I have done so much roll down testing that my riding buddies call me "Free Speed" because when we top a hill together and are coasting, I always get ahead. A long time ago Zipp used to have data on their web site about spoke count and drag. I think they took it off because it was not helping them sell wheels. One point to keep in mind is that as the rims get taller the spokes get shorter and are less relevant.
Another thing to think about is that bearing friction is almost not relevant. I replaced the bearings in a set of 's with ceramic and the difference was negligible. Another thing to keep in mind. Every Reynolds product that I have ever bought was rock solid.
I have a set of 's and 's and they have had problems with spoke pull through.
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